Fragrances, irritants, allergens and sensitivity

A number of frangrances are recognized to be both allergens and sensitizers (26 main ones). I am very sensitive to hexyl cinnamal and cannot use a shampoo with that fragrance additive in it. One can react to a fragrance additive and think that they are reacting to something else in a cosmetic formulation. My symptoms were an itchy, "burning", painful scalp. By comparing ingredient labels I was able to identify exactly what caused my symptoms. Any shampoo with that fragrance in it caused the same reaction.

"Risk management by labelling 26 fragrances? Evaluation of Article 10 (1) of the seventh Amendment (Guideline 2003/15/EC) of the Cosmetic Directive"
"... It was found that more than 50% of these cosmetic and washing and cleansing products contain at least one of the 26 substances above the thresholds for labelling ... Regulations are not effective if they load the major responsibility for risk management on consumers, instead of on authorities and manufacturers. ... "

Here is the list of the 26 fragrances. Hexyl cinnamaldehyde, a synonym for hexyl cinnamal is on it.

The article below is most disturbing because children suffered for far too long before the correct diagnosis was made. This underlines 2 things I have touched on before, pH being important in hair and skin products and reading labels and hopefully identifying an offending ingredient. Quaternary ammonium compounds are in all conditioners, some shampoos and many other products and many quats are known irritants. It is how one reacts to them and the concentration used that can be problematic. While one cannot change what products are used in schools, public restrooms or hospitals, one can be selective about what products one uses at home.

"Scrubbing Away Germs Can Backfire on Backsides"
" ... toilet-seat contact dermatitis ... incidence of this condition is rising in North America because of a resurgent popularity of exotic-wood toilet seats and frequent use of detergents that contain highly irritant/sensitizing compounds such as quaternary ammonium compounds ... detergents used in public restrooms and in hospitals are potentially more irritating to the skin than those used at home ..."

I reacted to an improperly formulated hair conditioner years ago (that was subsequently reformulated because of the number of bad reactions to it) and I cannot to this day use a product formulated with the quat behentrimonium chloride, no matter how far down an ingredient list it is on the label. I became that sensitized to it. I could not find information on it at the time and used other conditioners with it in them before I was sure it was the problem. Each time I was exposed to it my sensitivity became worse. From the MSDS on behentrimonium chloride, "Skin Contact: can cause skin irritation upon prolonged or repeated exposure."

The full version of the report above is available.

Shea butter, allergens and product labelling

Sometimes you can get a reaction to a product or ingredient and not realize that the ingredient is fairly well known as an allergen.

People often ask me what I know about an ingredient because they know I will search for the information if I cannot reply right away. I was recently asked about what someone recalled regarding shea butter and could not find in the current LHC threads. That is because that particular thread is archived. This is it, the LHC thread, where quidscrbis describes her severe allergic reaction to shea butter, a painful rash that lasted weeks.

Update November 16, 2012
Unfortunately, the LHC link above no longer works and at this time, I am unable to update it. Shea butter being a natural botanical product will have variations in constituents.

As it turns out, there is more to shea butter than is commonly known. I have seen warnings online that it should not be used on broken skin. See this link for peer-reviewed information on shea butter and its safety and cautions.

Then there is the question of labelling. This company, puts a warning on its label, for unrefined shea butter with essential oils.

As to reports online that shea butter is good for irritated skin, this 1996 study reported that canola oil actually worked better than the other lipids tested, which included shea butter.

Added June 27,2015
See also regarding shea products quality

2011

"Effect of storage conditions on microbiological and physicochemical quality of shea butter"

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3551152/

"The effect of storage duration and packaging materials on microbiological and physicochemical qualities of shea butter revealed the necessity to change some packaging materials used in the production sites."

2014
"Nutritional composition of shea products and chemical properties of shea butter: a review."
http://www.pubfacts.com/detail/24261539/Nutritional-composition-of-shea-products-and-chemical-properties-of-shea-butter-a-review
"Fat extraction is mainly done by traditional methods ... roasting and pressing of the kernels ... fat (butter) is used in food preparation and medicinal and cosmetics industries ... biochemical properties indicate some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Large variations are observed in the reported values for the composition of shea products. Recommendations for future research are presented to improve the quality and the shelf-life of the butter ... more attention should be given to the accuracy and precision in experimental analyses to obtain more reliable information about biological variation."

2014

"Coping with the Upheavals of Globalization in the Shea Value Chain: The Maintenance and Relevance of Upstream Shea Nut Supply Chain Organization in Western Burkina Faso" 

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0305750X14002691  

"If mandatory labeling implies stricter social and environmental requirements by the final buyers, it may also entail a shift in the organization of the shea value chain."

An update on my catnip cosmetic use and information on certified organic labelling

I recently tried catnip buds as opposed to a mix of leaves and buds. However, after using buds only twice (I used a bit more the 2nd time) my hair has actually been drier both times. It seemed softer at first. I needed to see how my hair reacted and felt over the weeks between washing and treating. I used the buds the same way I used the mix. The Catnip blog post.

I prefer a mix. I just bought another tub of Hagen Catit Catnip Garden. The label states that it is 100% organic and pesticide-free. There is something about the leaves and buds together that is better for my hair. I wanted to see if there was any real difference. I have in the past used organic leaf and flower or leaves and buds mixes with very few buds. Now I know what my hair needs and likes best, which as I thought is a more balanced mix. The Hagen brand is what I have used for the past 3 years approximately. I trust if for consistent quality. There are I am sure, other pet store brands that are excellent too.

Hagen is a Canadian Company, and their products are available internationally. One thing I like to do is check out the brand behind what I buy. I have spoken with a Hagen representative in the past about their catnip. Not all companies behind a brand of catnip grow their own product. What I like about pet supplied catnip is that the companies know about their product and can answer questions with knowledge. I have read enough research on catnip to know when a company does not and I have not had that happen with pet suppliers of catnip.

I have seen and read what some non pet suppliers of catnip have said about their catnip. Some know very little or nothing about what they actually offer for sale.Their prices for quantity per recommended single use packages of catnip for cosmetic use are to me, ludicrous (overpriced). The quantities I have read recommended for single use are wasteful and way too much, even for the longest, thickest hair. I have been buying catnip and using it cosmetically for hair and skin for almost 5 years. Catnip is extremely economical to use for personal care.

Having bought and used organic bulk catnip from health food stores with a huge variance in quality, I will not go back to spending my money on catnip of questionable quality and source again. Since I use catnip on my hair and skin, I will only purchase it from a pet supply company that has been around long enough and is still competitive in that business. That is no different to me than people questioning the quality and source of the henna they buy. If I were to grow catnip myself, there is a lot of information I would need to make sure that what I grow would meet the same standards of quality of an excellent quality, pet supplier catnip.

Some information on certified organic labelling - I find this most interesting.

Updated October 25, 2012 

U.S.
What seal to look for when buying organic products.
"Keep in mind that even if a producer is certified organic, the use of the USDA Organic label is voluntary. At the same time, not everyone goes through the rigorous process of becoming certified, especially smaller farming operations."

Organic does not mean the same as pesticide-free. For use on my hair and skin, I prefer catnip to be pesticide-free too.

Naturally sourced pesticides are still pesticides.
http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/organic-food/NU00255

Organic Products - 2015

The following exactly matches what the Hagen representative told me when I asked why their catnip was not labelled "certified organic".
"2009 Organic Products Regulations, Questions and Answers, updated 2014 Q2 Are non-food products, such as aquaculture products, cosmetics, fibres, health care products, etc., included in the Canada Organic Regime? The regulations apply only to food products, animal feed and products used for the cultivation of plants. Each sector not included in the application of the regulations may continue to make organic claims. However, these products must also meet all other relevant federal legislation"

Certified organic labels worldwide
"There are more than 400 bodies claiming to offer organic certification services. Some are governmental agencies while most are private organizations."

Setting The Record Straight About The Safety of Fats, Oils, Petrolatum, Iron Oxides And Our Lungs

While I was double checking the risks of inhaling iron oxide powder, I came across this research, that states while they found no link to inhaling iron oxides and lung cancer, there is a link between occupational workers and exposure to oil mists and bladder cancer.

There is thought to be about a weak link between populations exposed to iron oxides and cancer, where there is no exact cause identified. As stated here, "there is no evidence that occupational inhalation of iron oxides alone", alone being the operative word, can cause anything more than benign lung inflammation that does not restrict lung function.

Where is this leading and what does it have to to with is blog? It has do do with half truths and misinformation on the Internet and elsewhere, being perpetrated by marketers to generate profits, by not making all of the information known on products, that may be competing with their own.

Moving on to petrolatum and mineral oil, I came across this Wikipedia entry on petroleum jelly and the section on "improper uses" leading to lipid or more properly known as lipoid pneumonia, which when you click on it, gives a definition of the two kinds there are but not the causes in detail.

The truth about refined petrolatum, including mineral oil is that it is safe to use when it is USP or cosmetic grade.

The interesting thing is that the PHA contaminants, often incorrectly associated with cosmetic grade petrolatum may not be associated with lung cancer alone for occupational workers, but may actually be a combination of high levels and another contaminant.

The most fascinating thing about all of this to me has been understanding exactly how our bodies function regarding how fats can get into our lungs and cause lipoid pneumonia, which although rare does happen and it is not restricted to the use of petrolatum or mineral oil. It can be caused by the aspiration of any fat, including vegetable oils.

First some useful definitions. Vegetable oil is defined scientifically more broadly than one would think. Aspiration simply means breathing in. I found it very helpful to get a better understanding of just how we breathe and the anatomy of the lung.

Of the types of oils that can be aspirated, animal oil causes more problems than vegetable oil, which causes more than mineral oil. The oils are not intentionally introduced into the lungs. That can result from cultural practices as well as happen accidentally through a problem with a swallowing response.

Interestingly enough, the question about lipoid pneumonia and petroleum jelly was asked on the Mayo Clinic website and the reply is detailed.

Iron oxides should not present a risk to the consumer who wants to buy small amounts to use and is careful not to inhale the powder. They are not known to be carcinogens.

Out Of Africa Part II

Another oil from Africa is gaining attention, Calodendrum capense (Cape Chestnut) oil or as it is more commonly referred to, yangu oil. It is a non-toxic, non-drying oil that is used in Africa in soaps and cosmetics and is reported to have UV protective properties.

PACT Kenya has funded a project to conserve the Calodendrum capense trees and help local people earn a second income from the oil. The oil has been singled out by cosmetic industry watchers (See Earthoil in the Cosmetic Concepts, Amsterdam link below) as something different.

Going by the fatty acid profile, which I have verified on other websites, I would say that it cannot not penetrate hair deeply. The majority of the fatty acids have double bonds and oils like that do not deeply penetrate the hair shaft in research studies I have read. It has no lauric acid content. The oil does have a tradition of use for skin.

Updated October 21, 2012
From the iodine value in the MSDS I added below, it may be a semi-drying oil, depending on the source. Classifying an oil is based on its average iodine values because botanical natural oils can vary in properties and constituents.

References
WildLiving.com and cape chestnut oil
Wild Living Technical Team 
Cosmetic Concepts, Amsterdam
http://www.naturalsourcing.com/msds/MSDS_Yangu_Oil.pdf
See Also
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/understanding-drying-capacity-of-oils.html

Natural Products For Hair And Skin

I have been researching information on natural products for cosmetic use for quite a long time. I have searched the literature available in books and online. Books can be out of date by the time they go to press as new research becomes available and is released very quickly. Information is constantly being updated. There are many reputable online sources for information about plants and trees and the oils, barks, extracts and other versions used in cosmetics.

Since the 1970s and the resurgence of natural products becoming mainstream popular again today, I have seen almost no scientific information available, become a lot of excellent scientific information. This information is accessible to anyone interested in taking the time and effort to look for it.

The most important thing to remember about any natural product is whether or not it is safe to use and then in what quantities it is safe. Sometimes there are few restrictions recommended on quantities. Sometimes there are many restrictions. Governments are now beginning to regulate natural products. It means that an industry that has previously had no restrictions put upon it, will have to fall in line with food and drug regulations on safety, labelling, doses and precautions clearly listed on the container in addition to any insert.

Some natural products like foods such as sage and other herbs are perfectly safe in the amounts usually eaten but taken in excess, there can be adverse effects. One cannot assume that a food item can automatically be used in large quantities frequently as a cosmetic. Researching a product carefully for current information is the best "remedy" of all. Plants and extracts can act differently topically as opposed to ingestion but not in all cases. There is the issue of skin absorption that is not to be discounted. Cosmetic products are tested for skin absorption and safety and are regulated with regard to the amount of an ingredient used. However, not all natural cosmetic products are regulated, even though they are on the market. Buyers should beware!

Much more is now known about natural product interactions with drugs and long term use effects. Some people rely on traditional use as the measure of a natural product’s safety. Traditional use of a natural product does not signify its safety. If one looks at cosmetic history throughout the world, many natural toxic substances were used both medicinally and cosmetically in many cultures at various times and the toxicity of them was not recognized until much later. Lead in cosmetics was used in Ancient Rome and during Elizabethan times. It can still be found to contaminate some cosmetics today like kohl, a popular eye make-up, as stated in this FDA advisory and (updated) this one from Health Canada.

Many traditional herbs are used in combinations and at doses known to be safe by those trained in how to use them. The safety of many of the products in question is being validated by science. In other instances, the plants or herbs have shown no evidence of efficacy or safety.

I believe that some of the answers to cosmetic questions, including hair care can indeed come from natural products used on their own, in combinations, or added to conventional formulations. The key questions of concern are about the safety and proper use of such products, as more information becomes known.

Out Of Africa

There are some interesting projects and developments happening around the world with indigenous plants and their traditional uses.

Africa has a rich history of traditional plant use that is now being looked at to help the people in certain areas develop businesses and conserve nature at the same time. Research into plants with a history of medicinal use is being done to validate folklore and science is doing just that in a number of cases.

One such plant is the lelechwa shrub, Tarchonanthus camphoratus L. Traditionally the plant is used in various ways and one of those is that it is burned and the smoke inhaled to help respiratory problems. Animals that rub against the plant were observed to have unblemished skin compared to the same animal species in areas where the plant does not grow. The essential oil is now being added to cosmetics. Like any essential oil, it should be used cautiously. Essential oils are not meant to be used in quantity or straight but blended with a carrier oil and not ingested.

The plant itself has been shown in research to be even more valuable in raw form. There are other constituents that contribute to its strength as an antibacterial, antiviral product. The smoke of the leleshwa shrub has been shown to be effective for respiratory ailments in vitro (in the lab). The leleshwa shrub is a sustainable resource.

In 2008, a U.S. patent was granted to inventor Kuki Gallman for a hair treatment that contains the aqueous portion of leleshwa which was normally discarded during the steam distillation process to obtain the essential oil. The aqueous portion of leleshwa may prove to stimulate human hair growth.

More information can be found in the following:

Kuki Gallmann Patent

The Gallmann Memorial Foundation

Antibacterial and antifungal activities of Tarchonanthus camphoratus essential oil

How plant constituents work together

The antimicrobial activity of Tarchonanthus camphoratus

Validation of smoke inhalation therapy