Advantages Of Coconut And Argan Oils Over Other Natural Oils And Cosmetic Products

Coconut and argan oils are the best products to use (the pure oils) to protect hair from dye containing conventional peroxide, conventional peroxide, and bleach. They are best used on hair with limited to no residue, or a limited amount of a lightweight conditioner used. They can work even better when no conditioner has been used after washing hair, a day or so before processing. Details are in this blog. Argan oil has been noted to make skin sun or photosensitive, if it is used on skin during the day.

See

The 6 Discoveries I Developed That You Can Benefit From Through This Blog

And 

Consensus On Favorite Hair Oils, From Emails I Received

The 6 Discoveries I Developed That You Can Benefit From Through This Blog

2005 Catnip can prevent split ends, as well as stain grey or white hair with a light or pale blonde colour, and replace the need for conventional hair conditioner. I discovered that first previously unknown property, through my own experimentation with cut and dried catnip leaves and buds, used as a hair treatment. My catnip cosmetic journey began in September 2004. I still tweak my method. I started out looking for a natural hair colour and found much, much more from the plant. Research I read told me catnip can produce a light yellow dye. What it did not tell me was how, or whether it would work on hair. It can as I found out. Its constituents work in harmony to produce all of the effects, which do not come from one single part of it, although the colour is from its tannins.

2008 I created new honey lightening recipes that work faster and better than previous recipes used, following research I did on on the topic. I provide you with explanations of how and why the recipes can work based on that research. I created the term "honey lightening boosters" after researching the added ingredients used in the recipes.

2008 I developed a method for using coconut and argan oils, that can protect hair from damage by: conventional hair colour that contains peroxide, bleach, and other peroxide levels. It is about the ability of both oils to chelate iron and copper, which react with hydrogen peroxide, forming damaging free radicals. That directly followed my research on honey lightening. Honey chelates iron too.

2010 I created a method to use coconut and other oils in shampoo, that can replace the need for using conditioner and styling aids, based on research I read, my own experience with catnip, and product knowledge. I also created a treatment method using the oils. The latest shampoo method version, I created from doing more research, enhances the method, makes it more user friendly, and eliminates method issues that were difficult for some people. It is not available here at this time.

2010 Based on research on club soda, I recommended that it be used as a rinse to remove hard water mineral deposits on hair, and it can be as effective as vinegar rinses for that purpose, without the need for dilution. It can also be used as a rinse to reacidify the hair and scalp, following the use of an alkaline product. It is not the same product as soda water.

2011 I realized cosmetic mineral oil can be better used specific ways, outside of just as an addition to cosmetic products, and not as other people have been using, and recommended it be used previously. I created methods of use based on that information. It is about recognizing what it can do and why, from research on its known properties and results, including my own. Cosmetic mineral oil has been incorrectly categorized as synthetic, toxic, and a strain on ecological resources. Mineral oil is a by-product of petroleum production and is a natural oil. Cosmetic mineral oil has been purified and is safe to use. It is in direct competition with more expensive cosmetic products, which cannot do for hair and skin what it can, keep either hydrated for a longer period of time, and provide other benefits as well.

The information, recipes, methods, except for the advanced oil shampoo method are all here in detail for you to try, if you so desire. All can work extremely well. There are always variables with results. No cosmetic recipe, method, product or ingredient is a miracle. It is how they are all used and applied. With products and ingredients, there will be variations that include: quality, additives, species, or type with honey for example. My work is copyright protected.

See
Catnip
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/11/part-3-of-4-on-innovative-approaches-to.html
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/06/catnip-safety-review-2012.html
Honey Lightening
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/11/part-4-of-4-on-innovativee-approaches.html
How to protect hair from dye/peroxide/bleach
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html
Oil Shampoo and treatment
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2010/10/hair-care-of-movie-stars-from-past.html
Cosmetic mineral oil
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/mineral-oil-and-hair-care-and-skin.html
See Also
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2013/03/misting-hair-and-reapplying-oil-as.html
Information on club soda
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/11/part-2-of-4-on-innovative-approaches-to.html
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/when-to-clarify-hair-and-with-what.html

Hair Protein Loss And Coconut Oil, Hygral Fatigue And Mineral Oil

This is often referred to as the "definitive study"on coconut oil and hair protein loss. However, it is not said in the study, as is often stated on the Internet, that the observed protein loss coconut oil can prevent is from inside the hair shaft. An explanation is given as to why in detail. The hair tested was washed with sodium laureth sulfate only, not shampoo, after initially being cleaned, See Pages 178, 179 and 180. Most commercial shampoos today contain one or more quaternary ammonium compounds, e.g. polyquaternium 10, which also acts as a combing aid.

This text below is quoted directly from the study, on Pages 185 and 186, colour added by me. See Page 180, which names the protein loss testing method used.

"RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
PROTEIN LOSS

The process of cuticle chipping that results from abrasion of hair against objects such as grooming devices or even other hair is a major factor in hair damage. The proteins that constitute the cuticle cells are lost during wet combing. It is well known that wet combing is accompanied by the breaking of the surface cuticle cell because of its brittleness. Histologically, the major component of the cuticle cell consists of the exocuticle and the endocuticle. The exocuticle, being highly cross-linked is not swollen by water. The endocuticle and the cell membrane complex, on the other hand, are less cross-linked and are more vulnerable to swelling damage. This leads to the lifting of the surface cuticle via bending. Such cuticle cells can be broken in the process of combing or teasing. The protein loss observed in these measurements results mostly from the cuticular region. Because of the short time involved in the combing and brief immersion of the combed tress in water, it is unlikely that proteins from the bulk of the fiber are involved in this measurement."

In the first study undertaken by the same company, a commercial shampoo used (shampoo 1), showed almost the same results on curly and straight hair as the use of coconut oil as a "prewash treatment", See the graphs on Page 334. The text on the left underneath the graph "Figure 6.", should have said without coconut oil. See this blog post on pre-wash treatments.


After rereading their 2001 study on coconut oil hair penetration, hygral fatique and mineral oil, it supports what I wrote in the post below and in this one, plus research in this blog post and the 2012 COSSMA reference here.

The researchers submerged untreated and oil-treated hair in water for one hour, See Page 182 and quoted from Pages 183 and 184, colour added by me.

"While both oil-treated categories show a significant decrease in swelling, it is slightly greater for the coconut-oil-treated fibers than the mineral-oil treated specimens. In coconut-and mineral-oil-treated specimens, swelling is reduced by 48% and 33%, respectively. This strongly suggests that the fiber is protected from damage by hygral fatigue (swelling and de-swelling).

It should be emphasized that the reduction in moisturization of the fiber does not make the fiber rigid because of the plasticizating action of the absorbed coconut oil. ...

Mineral oil also shows lower levels of swelling compared to the untreated fiber, suggesting that it may have penetrated into the cuticular regions, thereby preventing further penetration of water into the hair shaft during the swelling experiment.

Significant reduction in swelling suggests that this will prevent swelling and deswelling (hygral fatigue) of the fiber. Hygral fatigue can lead to cuticular damage as well as damage to the cortex, which can, in turn, affect the mechanical properties."

In other words, mineral oil can also reduce too much water from entering the hair shaft and it can penetrate deeper than just the surface of the hair. Coconut oil in experiments on hair without barrier coatings does not make hair stiff when it penetrates hair, See Pages 170 and 171 for information on the hair used and how it was prepared just before the testing for oil penetration (washed with sodium laureth sulfate). 

From results reported on oil shampoo and my own results with it, lauric acid penetration and penetration to a lesser degree by the other fatty acids in coconut oil did not result in stiff or "crunchy" (very dry) hair either, even when coconut oil was used over a period of time. I have read numerous reports online of coconut oil use causing hair to become "hard" feeling and dry.

See Also

This blog post for more details

Consensus On Favorite Hair Oils, From Emails I Received

I get feedback on products used in hair care and how they are used. Here are results from the emails I received, on the top 2 favorite hair oils. Both of the following oils are natural, cost-effective and are preferred for different reasons and applications.

Coconut Oil
1. Works best on well clarified hair as a treatment (fractionated coconut oil did not work nearly as well and most contain no lauric acid for hair penetration)
2. Works best added to shampoo that does not cause build-up, after the hair has been well clarified, with no need of conditioner to follow
3. Works best for hair more frequently washed, as it cannot hold moisture in hair too long, without reapplication between washes, just like any other vegetable oil
4. Not the best detangler, or used over a lot of residue (it causes "crunchy" or dry hair) and not the oil to use when there are certain scalp conditions, like real dandruff, or in conditions of high or low humidity, or under conditions that can cause it to break down on the hair or skin (no vegetable oil is recommended under those conditions), See this post
5. Very little needs to be used as a grooming oil, or the hair can become heavy, greasy, sticky and stringy.
6. Works superbly as a pre-treatment before dyeing with a dye that contains peroxide, or lightening with peroxide alone, or bleach, to help with dye uptake and help prevent hair damage
7. Can work well  used as a pre-wash oil, or added to any shampoo as a surface oil, or used over conditioner, as a surface grooming oil
8. Although it is a honey lightening recipe booster oil, it has not been reported to lighten hair used on its own, in the applications listed above.

Cosmetic Mineral Oil (USP/BP)
1. It is the best oil for moisturizing, or keeping hair moisturized, detangling and preventing static hands down, compared to any other oil, or silicone. It can hold moisture in hair longer than other oils, silicone, natural sebum, or other detangling products, without causing build-up.
2. No need for reapplication between hair washes, if small drops of it are distributed well throughout the hair
3. It is the easiest oil to use. You do not need to use it as a pre-wash oil to prevent hair from getting too much water in it while washing. It is already on the hair coating and protecting it used post washing.
4. Can work very well used with other products, like conditioner, if too much conditioner or other product is not used, or residue present
5. It is lightweight enough as baby oil to prevent hair becoming heavy, greasy or stringy, when not too much is used. It spreads most easily to do that. It is never sticky. It is very easy to wash out. No need to clarify or use a sulfate shampoo to remove it
6. The best oil to help hair recover from any type of damage, by reducing mechanical friction, keeping needed water in hair longer than any other oil, or product and help protect hair from further abrasion, split ends and breakage
7. Can replace the need for conditioner, treatments and thermal protectants
8. Works well when there is real dandruff, or other scalp conditions present, without issues and works well under all atmospheric conditions, especially high and low humidity to help prevent frizz
9. I received several more reports of it helping protect hair from UV damage and helping protect hair from swimming in pools and sea water. I still believe the best protection to prevent UV damage to hair is covering it with a tight weave hat, scarf or using an umbrella. Regarding using it before swimming, very little of it is needed to coat the hair.

For those who do not want to pollute swimming waters, as any amount of oil, added conditioner or product can be seen as too much, rinsing hair with club soda following swimming and using it to saturate hair or help saturate hair, prior to swimming is a hair and environmentally friendly option. Club soda neutralizes chlorine and needs no dilution, as its pH is about 5 and it helps remove sea water minerals from hair, that can cause hair to become very dry. Club soda is different than plain soda water. A typical example of its ingredients can be found here. The sodium bicarbonate in it is used as a buffering agent, to keep the pH stable. Potassuim sulfate information can be found here.

The 3rd and 4th favorite oils are argan and camellia, respectively. Both are classified as vegetable oils and coconut oil is too. Argan oil is great as a pre-treatment before dyeing and lightening, used on top of coconut oil because it cannot penetrate hair as deeply to saturate it, or instead of coconut oil. Camellia oil is fairly lightweight and can help with tangles. The only issues with those oils are price and quality. The best quality pure oils, yielding the best results, tend to be expensive but definitely worth it, compared to lower priced versions. All 4 oils are safe to use. The only caution with argan oil is that it can make skin photosensitive (the link to that text no longer works) and it is best used at night for that reason.

Coconut Oil: Response To Email Questions On Comedogenicity, Shelf Life And Rancidity

While coconut oil can be a great oil to use, there can be a few issues with it. It is considered to be comedogenic, including fractionated coconut oil, on a number of online lists for cosmetic ingredients, supported here, and here regarding acne. Lauric acid is stated to be comedogenic on several such lists as well.

Regarding coconut oil going rancid, in spite of its shelf life being touted as long and it can be depending on the type of processing, shelf life is about unopened oil. Once opened, it depends on how the oil is used, possible contamination and how it is stored. In spite of a number of vendors saying it needs no special storage, there are numerous reports online of various brands of virgin coconut oil becoming rancid or going bad, even the more costly ones. Virgin coconut oil can become rancid.

I store unopened virgin coconut oil in a cool, dark cupboard, away from any heat source and moisture. That linked information on storage is fairly standard for the most part and can be found on several reputable websites that go into detail on the topic. I keep virgin coconut oil in the fridge after opening it, to be on the safe side. I use it in food. For oil shampoo, I scraped off what I needed with a clean spoon, put it into a small plastic scoop to mix with shampoo and melted it, by running warm water on the sides of the scoop and then tilted it, to warm the bottom of the scoop. That worked in less than 30 seconds or so. For use in food, I place the oil jar from the fridge into the same storage cupboard until the coconut oil has softened, spoon out what I need and put the rest back in the fridge.

With any cosmetic, or products for cosmetic use, I do not dip my fingers into a container. I use a clean implement, like a small plastic spoon or spatula made for such use, or in the case of coconut oil, a metal teaspoon, to avoid contamination, even if my hands are just washed. To me, it is a precautionary habit now. Years ago, I had a cream eye shadow palette become contaminated after continuous use with my fingers for application, instead of an applicator and I had a resulting problem with a minor eye lid infection.

I have read quite a few reports on forums and elsewhere online, about coconut oil smelling bad, when it has been used on hair, after a period of time, between hair washes, while in the jar, it may have looked, tasted and smelled perfectly fine. To me, either the coconut oil was close to going rancid, or the conditions once on the hair, promoted that happening. For such conditions, See this blog post.

A comment about coconut oil used topically for treating acne, with results being different seasonally can be found in response to this very interesting article, with a video, on "bio nanotechnology"and lauric acid. The comment supports the information in the blog post, linked above.
Update June 4, 2013. That comment is now gone. The gist of it was that while pure coconut oil worked well otherwise, it had the opposite effect on acne during the summer.

See Also this blog post.

Replies To Frequent Email Questions

I reply to emails privately. I reply publicly to email questions that are frequent, to help others with similar issues.

Mineral Oil Baby Oil Use
1. Only use mineral oil baby oil on damp to wet hair if your hair is dry or lacking moisture for the best results. Use it on dry as opposed to damp or wet hair, if your hair is not lacking moisture.

2.Try to find a baby oil with as few ingredients as possible, preferably just mineral oil and fragrance or without fragrance, if you are sensitive to it. In Europe, Johnson's makes one called Natusan. Any extra additives can be sensitizers, create build-up or if they are added oils, leave hair greasy easily. Vitamin E listed is a stabilizer and is not a problem.

3. If mineral oil baby oil is not easily found there are laxative mineral oils in pharmacies and Ikea makes one for wooden cutting boards. That size bottle should last a very long time. Mineral oil has an indefinite shelf life.

4. If cosmetic or USP/BP mineral oil is used, you do not need to separately use a pre-wash oil treatment to help prevent protein loss. When the mineral oil is being washed out, it helps prevent tangles and protein loss from tangling abrasion and helps reduce the amount of water that enters the hair shaft.

5. Usually, mineral oil does not need reapplication between hair washes. However, if sections of the hair have been overlooked during the initial application, redampen or rewet the areas of the hair (misting works well for this) and add the extra amount needed, if the hair is dry (lacking moisture). If the hair has a great moisture level, just apply the extra needed amount to those areas on dry hair.

Coconut Oil
1. Most fractionated coconut oils contain no to almost no lauric acid, making them unsuitable for treatments and oil shampoo, where deep penetration of the hair shaft is the goal. I have added this information as a "Note" in the appropriate posts.

2. Both refined and virgin coconut oils can be used for deep treatments and oil shampoo. It depends on the degree of refining as to the quality of the oil but expensive coconut oil is not necessary. It just needs to be pure coconut oil and food grade is perfectly fine to use. All coconut oil is processed and with a degree of heat, whether it is virgin coconut oil or not.

3. The lauric acid in coconut oil cannot penetrate through barrier ingredients that include: many polymers, waxy ingredients, natural butters and other oils used in any quantity. I do not recommend using mineral oil and oil shampoo at the same time. To get the best results from both, use them separately.

Protein Treatments And Hair Dryness
I learned these facts about protein and how added protein affects hair moisture levels from Redken research, when I worked in the cosmetic industry. Protein binds water. When protein treatments or products are used on hair, whether they are a surface coating only, or penetrating, the added protein acts like hair protein, to bind the water that is in the hair, including in the upper levels of the hair, like the cuticles. If the water content of your hair is low, it is thus further reduced. That is why moisture treatments are recommended and most often needed, after the use of protein products. Protein products and treatments in general are drying. 

The answer to "protein overload" is to add moisture to hair. That moisture is simply water. The fastest, easiest and most efficient way to do that is to use mineral oil alone on damp to wet hair. Mineral oil holds needed water in hair longer than other products, natural sebum, vegetable oils or silicones and can rehydrate hair. See Also this post.

Coconut Oil And Mineral Oil Use

This blog post is in response to several blog emails on the same topic. 

Any "new" oil you try on your hair is going to be affected by what is already on your hair in terms of residues and hair care products in the process of creating those residues. All conditioners cause build-up. Many shampoos these days do too, as do styling aids.

Cosmetic mineral oil can work very well used over conditioner and conditioning shampoos or treatments, less so over styling aids for detangling, depending on the amount of product and residue on the hair. Cosmetic mineral oil or for many, baby oil is a surface oil. It can replace conditioner, detanglers and treatments. It can do the same things by filling in gaps in the cuticles and replacing lost lipids and moisturize hair better than vegetable oils or silicones. No oil, natural or otherwise is the same or similar to natural sebum.

Coconut oil can deeply penetrate hair to the cortex level. There are other oils that can too, like babbasu oil and palm kernel oil becaue of their high lauric acid content. However, these oils cannot penetrate hair with residues on it, or when used over relatively small amounts of conditioner used afterward on hair that has been clarified, for example. The oils need to be used on well clarified hair and can make excellent hair care treatments.

For use in oil shampoo, the oils mentioned above need to be used on hair first well clarified and then added to a preferably mild shampoo that does not cause build-up. If the oil shampoo is then followed by small drops of cosmetic mineral oil will the oil shampoo be as effective? Probably not. Yes, the oil shampoo can remove the mineral oil but during washing it is still there, hindering coconut oil penetration. Two shampooings will most likely be needed, one to remove the mineral oil and one to allow the coconut oil for example, to deeply penetrate hair.

Can coconut oil and mineral oil both be used in a hair care routine? Yes.

Most people need to clarify their hair every so often. That is a perfect opportunity to use coconut oil as a deep treatment. During washing it out with a shampoo that does not cause build-up, or if heat has been used during the treatment, it can deeply penetrate hair. Note: Most fractionated coconut oils contain no to almost no lauric acid. That means most cannot be used to penetrate hair.

The reason many people have problems with coconut oil is that while it can make a lovely surface oil, it is heavy, can be sticky and used over any residues or even a limited or very small fresh application of conditioner after clarifying hair, it is not going into the hair deeply. Coconut oil is not going to deeply penetrate hair mixed with butters or other waxy ingredients, natural or otherwise, either. 

Many people use coconut oil and like it used over conditioned hair. It is working on the hair surface and that can be fine. However, it is the amount of the other products used and the resulting residues that can change that to "crunchy" or "velcro like" hair. The same principles apply to the use of other natural oils that are able to penetrate hair less deeply than coconut, babassu and palm kernel oils. They become surface oils too.

Cosmetic mineral oil can be a multipurpose product for hair care without the drawbacks of other natural oil use: greasy, heavy, sticky hair. It alone can do many things you want an oil to do and more. It cannot replace all coconut oil or argan oil functions and it cannot deeply penetrate hair.

See Also

http://ktanihairsens.blogspot.ca/2012/04/how-mineral-oil-can-help-even-damaged.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/tips-for-applying-cosmetic-mineral-oil.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/conditioners-treatments-and-mineral-oil.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/02/more-on-oils-and-oil-shampoo.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/understanding-drying-capacity-of-oils.html

Oils And Access To The Hair

Much attention has been given to this study on coconut oil used as a pre-wash treatment for protection of the hair from protein loss and conditioning with good reason. It is clear that coconut oil can penetrate hair to the cortex level and by doing so, in addition to lubricating the hair surface, it reduces hair swelling from water, which makes combing less damaging. The results are defined by the lauric acid in coconut oil being able to penetrate hair that deeply and bind to protein in the hair's cortex. Note: Most fractionated coconut oils contain no to almost no lauric acid. They are not suitable to be used this way, to help prevent protein loss.

In order for coconut oil to penetrate hair in such a manner, it needs to be used on well clarified hair as in the study and the shampoo used needs to not contain any barrier coatings, that would restrict lauric acid from hair penetration during shampooing and build-up, also as in the study. Coconut oil did not do as well in the same study as a post-wash grooming aid because as it was later shown, lauric acid can only fully penetrate hair either during shampooing or with added heat.

Used on top of barrier coatings or in a product with them, coconut oil's properties are restricted to the hair's surface only. That is why when it is used on top of conditioned hair for example, it can often lead to dry hair and "crunchy" ends. The lauric acid cannot get past conditioner barrier coatings, which are mostly waxy or polymeric. This would also apply to any other oil that can penetrate more than the cuticle layers of hair. Barrier coatings would prevent them from doing so too and deep protein treatments are best used and often recommended to be used on well clarified hair for the same reason, to allow absorption.

Where all of this can be confusing is that oils often "disappear" after being applied to dry or damp hair as a grooming aid. They are in fact diffusing into hair cuticles, although on top of barrier coatings and residue, they can be visible and limited in doing so and in desired results.

Cosmetic mineral oil on can do very well used on top of conditioned hair, provided as with other oils, the hair does not have an excess of conditioner or treatment used at one time or build-up residue blocking access to the hair. It can fill in cuticle gaps missed by conditioners or treatments that have not coated hair well, smoothing and detangling hair more effectively. Although still primarily on the surface of the hair, small drops of mineral oil can be undetectable, other than by results. By reducing friction and tangling, mineral oil is preventing protein loss too by preventing abrasion. It is not necessary to use a shampoo that does not cause build-up before using mineral oil as its properties are restricted to the cuticles of the hair as a grooming aid and as a pre-wash treatment not fully washed out, it would still be able to reduce abrasion.

Mineral oil is a more effective moisturizer than vegetable oils, including coconut oil and spreads more easily without being sticky, heavy or greasy. It cannot replace coconut oil used as a deep treatment, or in oil shampoo using my methods, to yield the same results. Added to shampoo it does have possibilities and may work quite well depending on the shampoo and how it is used. Mineral oil does not have coconut oil's chelating properties.

Both oils have their place in hair care for different applications and both can enhance waves and curls. For coconut oil that means not using too much, as it is a heavy oil and it can easily leave hair greasy. Cosmetic mineral oil like baby oil is a lightweight oil. Of the two used as a grooming aid on damp to fairly wet hair for moisturizing, or on dry hair to maintain a good moisture level, or as a thermal protectant, mineral oil is more effective and versatile.

See Also
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/02/more-on-oils-and-oil-shampoo.html

Part 4 of 4 on Innovative Approaches to Hair Care: Honey Lightening

Updated July 27, 2014
This is the last of the 5 Honey threads ("latest" referred to below) I started. The explanations and some of the research that are included with the recipes below was done by me in 2008 and earlier. Beware of other versions of the recipes below online and elsewhere. Although I have been credited, compensated for my work, errors still remain. Raw honey is not necessary! Raw honey is not a factor for successful results. I have been dealing with a number of errors via email lately. There have not been needed replies given by others about how and why honey lightening can work when detailed questions about it have been asked because no research was done, other than skimming over some of the explanations I provided. Nothing was ever called a "honey lightening booster" until I coined the phrase after research I did on honey lightening recipe additives. 

Successful honey lightening can be achieved without it being complicated. You need: a pure honey (there are some types to avoid) and pasteurized is just fine to use, water with a low to no mineral content (distilled water is easiest for that but some tap waters can work well), and the right proportion of water to honey which can be varied because it is about pH. The honey lightening boosters can enhance results considerably. It can get complicated with honey fraud, type, and water choice. No external heat is needed. UV damages hair while lightening it. UV is not a factor in honey lightening either. 

There are pictures of honey lightening results with the new recipes and method I created posted to view. Some may have been lost (they are old by now). I do not take credit for application techniques or hair coverings used. Those vary and are about ease of application and helping to keep the hair wet during the treatment, which I have explained is very important.

The hair does not have to be covered during a honey lightening treatment but it does need to be kept wet with the treatment, for the entire time it is on the hair. Covering the hair can be the best way to achieve that. Innovations in those areas and more by other LHC members, I recognized and credited and there is a post I wrote about them alone, to assist others looking for ideas.

All of my blog posts, forum posts and online articles - are copyright protected. 

Update February 16, 2013
The peroxide value of spices can be found here, with that of cardamom being the highest of those listed, except for black pepper, which is more of an irritant and is not recommended because of that, for honey lightening recipes.

One of the most often asked about topics is red tones and honey lightening. Here is the thread post on what can cause red tones to appear in hair colour, when any kind of lightening is done. It is not included in the information below. It is about the amount and type of natural, or added pigment in hair, as well as other factors, that can affect hair lightening and colouring results.

None of the ingredients in the recipes below have been reported to add a red tone to hair, even ground cinnamon, which has been mistakenly thought to do so by some people. Following a honey lightening treatment with cassia, often incorrectly referred to as neutral henna, or an apple cider vinegar rinse can add a red tone to hair colour. Both have been reported to do so, unrelated to honey lightening.

Honey lightening can be an alternative to lightening hair colour (virgin and colour-treated, all shades from black on up), with conventional peroxide and bleach. It has not been reported to damage hair, even after multiple treatments over extended periods of time. Honey slowly releases peroxide on dilution with a liquid that contains water. Honey was reported to lighten hair colour on The Long Hair Community Boards before the Honey threads were started, to figure out how it worked and why it worked for some people and not others.    ______________________________________________________________________

The following recipes and method I designed are based on my having analyzed accredited research I read. Patch test any ingredient not previously used on the scalp or skin.

1. The new dilution is 4 times the amount of water to honey, calculated by weight. It is now the recommended dilution to be used for honey lightening. The minimum amount of honey to be used is 10 grams. 10 grams of honey would need 40 grams of distilled water. 2 tablespoons (1/8 cup or 1.5 oz) honey needs 6 oz distilled water or 3/4 cup US (1/2 cup Metric), or 12 tablespoons distilled water. You can convert to ml, oz, tablespoons or cups. Here is a link on honey conversions. Another way to use the new dilution is to just use tablespoons, 1 tablespoon of honey to 6 tablespoons distilled water, 2 to 12 etc. It works out to be the same as calculating by weight.

According to reports posted in the latest Honey thread, better results have been achieved with the new dilution in 1 hour, than with repeated treatments using other dilution ratios. Different honeys produce different levels of peroxide. Here is the Successful Honeys List. If one cannot be found, try a dark coloured honey blend (raw or pasteurized, both have been reported to work equally well). Dark coloured blends were reported in research, to have higher peroxide levels than lighter coloured blends. A dark coloured, single source honey, does not necessarily have a high peroxide value - it depends on the plant source.

2. Distilled water is recommended to be used for honey lightening in place of tap water. It is a better choice, for getting the best results from a honey lightening recipe because of its pH (7) and hydrogen peroxide can decompose in contact with certain minerals. Some tap waters are the exception and have been reported to be fine for honey lightening. More information on distilled water can be found in here.

3. Honey lightening boosters are ingredients that add extra peroxide to the recipes. These are ground cardamom, ground cinnamon, coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil. Spices may be irritating, so follow the "less is more" approach with the new dilution. Start with 1 tablespoon after patch testing; suggested maximum 2 tablespoons. Mix spices into a recipe, after the honey is added, for a smoother liquid. Oils can be difficult to wash out of the hair; suggested amount 1 tablespoon. None of the peroxide containing ingredients in the honey lightening recipes, including the honey and ground cinnamon, has been reported to add colour to the hair. Here is more information on cinnamon and cardamom. Here is information on coumarin.

4. No external heat should be used with honey lightening. Do not use a blow dryer or sunlight. None of the recipe ingredients should be heated at any time. Heat (except body heat) can destroy hydrogen peroxide by decomposing it to water and oxygen. The peroxide produced by honey is not stabilized the way conventional peroxide is and is much more delicate because of that. It depends on the degree of heat and the amount of time that it is applied to it. Pasteurization does not destroy the enzyme in honey (glucose oxidase) that generates the peroxide.

5. Store your honey, ground spices and oils away from heat, light and moisture, at room temperature, in a cupboard, preferably. Opened oils can be refrigerated.

6. No ingredients that contain vitamin C, (except ground cardamom, which has the highest peroxide value for a spice and a low vitamin C level), should be used in the recipes. Hydrogen peroxide oxidizes vitamin C and is depleted in doing so. Some honeys naturally contain higher levels of vitamin C. Avoid using Anzer, buckwheat, chestnut, linden flower, locust flower, mint, or thyme honeys. Most honeys contain very low levels. Here is a list of the Vitamin C content of selected ingredients.

7. Jarrah honey from Australia is known for its very high peroxide value and is a good choice for honey lightening. Information on Jarrah honey and current suppliers can be found here.

8. Conditioner is not recommended to be included in honey lightening recipes. Hair conditioners are too acidic for most honeys and the spices, (it can reduce the optimal pH needed for a honey to produce peroxide), can contain ingredients that interfere with honey lightening and their water content (most conditioners are 70-90% water), if used as part of the new dilution, can effectively reduce the amount of water needed. The same applies to coconut cream and milk (they contain minerals, are acidic and contain Vitamin C, as well as not enough water). You can use conditioner to wash out a honey lightening treatment, instead of using shampoo or just rinse a treatment out. If there is honey residue, shampoo is recommended and has been reported to easily resolve the problem, better than a vinegar rinse or extra water rinsing.

9. The honey lightening recipes can be applied with a tint or blush brush for more control of placement.

10. Mix the honey lightening recipe, at room temperature and let the recipe sit for 1 hour, also at room temperature, to let the honey produce peroxide or use it right away and the honey will produce peroxide while on the hair.The hair should be freshly washed or rinsed first, if there is aloe gel on the hair (aloe gel contains Vitamin C), a Vitamin C containing leave-in treatment, heavy conditioner, a large amount of oil (a large amount of some types of oil will act as a barrier to the water), or styling products on the hair. If there is a lot of residue on the hair, it should be clarified first. If not, a honey lightening treatment can also be applied to wet or dry, unwashed hair. Apply the treatment with a tint, blush or basting brush, spray or squirt bottle. Pin the hair up, cover the hair with plastic and keep the treatment on the hair for about 1 hour. The hair must be kept completely wet with the treatment both before being covered and the time that the treatment is on the hair. Wearing a swim cap is recommended. Also recommended, is to use saran wrap under a lycra swim cap. It does not squeeze out too much water and the treatment does not drip as much with this method. Honey lightening innovations by LHC members.

11. Honey lightening has not been reported to damage hair even with continuous use. What has been reported occasionally is "crunchy" or dry hair. That is a honey residue result and can easily be resolved by shampooing or using a vinegar rinse. Some honeys leave fewer to no discernible residues than others. There is research to support honey lightening not being damaging. The flavonoids mentioned here are all found in honey, the peroxide boosters, ground cinnamon, ground cardamom and extra virgin olive oil. Gallic acid and its esters are found in coconut oil. Gallic acid esters were also found to protect cells from hydrogen peroxide damage. In honey lightening, these natural phytochemicals are in place while the peroxide is being produced. The flavonoids chelate the iron and copper that generate the damaging free radicals when hydrogen peroxide reacts with hair. This research led to using one of the honey lightening recipe ingredients as a pre-treatment before conventional chemical dye and lightening. See Part 1 of this series.

12. This is a Pictures Post of some past and current honey lightening results.

Part 1 of a 4 Part Series on Innovative Approaches to Hair Care: How to save money and help save your hair from damage caused by hair dye or bleach

Many of us deal with the image we present to clients and employers. For increasing numbers of men and women in today’s economy, that may mean starting over in the job market at an advanced age. For some people that may include using hair dye. Others like to colour their hair for a change or for fun.

I am going to tell you how you can save money and more, if you do use hair dye or bleach.

Almost all hair dyes that can cover grey hair and all that can lighten hair colour, contain hydrogen peroxide. A peroxide developer is used to activate hair bleach. When hydrogen peroxide is applied to hair it produces free radicals that are damaging. The result can be hair that is dry, or breaks easily, and grey coverage can be unsuccessful. The free radicals are generated primarily by the iron and copper, absorbed into hair from tap water and some hair care products.

Chelants are chemicals that occur naturally or can be synthesized, that bind metals and can be used to keep iron and copper from reacting with peroxide. Proctor and Gamble (P&G) has found that their synthesized copper chelant can minimize hair damage more than 95% and better dye uptake is achieved with it. One of the ways to use it is in a pre-treatment. Chelants can be used that way naturally and hair can be conditioned too. Both coconut and argan oils contain chelants that chelate iron and copper. Argan oil chelates more copper than iron. You just need the pure oils. They can be used separately or in combination.

TAM
Timing
At least 1 hour is recommended, to let the oils saturate the hair before dye or bleach is applied directly over them.

Access to hair
The hair should be free of any residue and conditioner.

Amount
Heavy oiling has been reported to give the best results. Update 3/4/13 - the linked information is why a heavy oiling works better. See "in a level higher" in the linked text, "[0058]".

On a forum I (updated) belonged to, there have been over 51 no damage reports so far using these oils. Heavy oiling has been reported to yield the best dye uptake, lightening and conditioning results. These oils saturate and can penetrate well clarified hair and have not been reported to interfere with hair dye uptake or lightening in any way. They have been reported separately and in combination, to increase dye uptake, colour intensity and yield great lightening results, with no hair damage from the chemical processes used on top of the oils being reported, in the overwhelming majority of cases.

Nothing can return hair to its pre-damaged state. These oils help prevent damage and can make buying products to deal with hair dye problems unnecessary. They can help save your cosmetic budget and help save your hair.

Results reported by forum member Dolly, after pre-treatment with a heavy coconut oiling: Great grey root coverage, soft shiny hair with no damage reported and intense colour that lasts, shown here after using permanent hair colour. Far right: 1 week after hair colouring with her latest pre-treatment.

 

Photos courtesy of Dolly

Bianca's results: A heavy coconut oil  pre-treatment before using bleach to lighten henna and then another heavy coconut oil pre-treatment before applying hair dye to adjust the colour. No hair damage was reported after the double processing.

  

Photo courtesy of Bianca