Sulfate-Free, Paraben-Free Versus Conventional Hair Products

Updated, and I will be adding to this post. 

The ideal of using the most natural hair care products is a very appealing one from a number of perspectives. The reality can be quite different. With any cosmetic product it comes down to formulation, ingredient choices and proper, safe manufacturing practices regarding results. Even all natural soaps need to be carefully made to avoid caustic free alkali causing problems in the end product.

Sulfate-free shampoos are marketed to be preferable for hair care because the cleansers are more mild and less irritating than sulfates. Are they really though? I have read many reviews of sulfate-free shampoos and there are multiple reports of very dry hair and irritated scalps. It is about the sulfate-free cleansers used and their combination with other ingredients that determines the outcome of product use. That applies to sulfate shampoos too.

Sulfate shampoos have been used for many years without problems and continue to be available today through many companies that offer sulfate-free options. Sulfate-free, paraben-free products are big business right now.

However, sulfate-free can be tricky to define at times. C14-16 olefin sulfonate is used in a number of "all natural" shampoos and it can be a harsh cleanser that is not what I would call natural. In fact, shampoo cleansers while derived from natural sources in many cases, including the mild sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate are created in laboratories, with processes that vary in artificial additives.

A less publicly known problem with the most popular sulfate-free cleansers, alkyl glucosides is that they can be potent allergens, causing allergic contact dermatitis. Botanicals used in conjunction with these cleansers, plus fragrance and other additives, individually and in concert can cause one to react to a shampoo and not have a clue as to what exactly may have caused their reaction. Allergy tests can be done. Showing the ingredient list to a dermatologist can be a good idea too, as he or she may spot other known allergens to test first, saving time.

Parabens and sulfates came under a lot of controversy because of certain research studies, and concerns regarding cosmetic ingredient contamination. Specific parabens have recently been reaffirmed for safety as used in cosmetics in Europe, two with a recommendation that they be used at less concentrations than previously allowed and restricted in use, while others have been banned until further assessment has been made. See updated References below. 

The contamination issue, regarding 1,4 dioxane, a by-product of the manufacture of a number of cosmetic ingredients has been and continues to be monitored by governments regulating cosmetics. Government regulation stringentness of cosmetics varies in some countries. However, the safety of cosmetic ingredients makes the news and is online too from reputable sources, as well as from scare tactic marketing hype sources, that want nothing more than to sell you their products.

Preservatives are a necessary part of cosmetic formulations to prevent the growth of bacteria and yeasts that can cause problems for the user if not present. I for one am not fond of of a shampoo or other cosmetic product going off and I toss the product if that occurs.

Other preservatives have come under scrutiny for safety, like phenoxyethanol for example, widely used in cosmetics, including those that claim to be all natural. The point is that cosmetics ingredients are monitored, scientifically studied and regulated, and consumers are not victims. Are there improperly formulated cosmetic products on the market? Yes. Some "fly under the regulations radar" and are homemade but sold online and locally. Some are smuggled into countries from countries with few cosmetic regulations on safe cosmetic manufacturing. These are exceptions and many of the latter can be found on government Advisories and Recall lists in the United States, Canada, and other countries.

References
"Antiperspirants and Breast Cancer Risk", 2014, bolding added by me
http://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancercauses/othercarcinogens/athome/antiperspirants-and-breast-cancer-risk#.VfbzFej2pdQ.twitter
"so far, studies have not shown any direct link between parabens and any health problems, including breast cancer."

"Parabens", 2015
http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/2015/06/parabens-podcast#.VfbG1IHjE6A.twitter
"European Commission - PRESS RELEASES - Press release - Consumers: Commission improves safety of cosmetics", 2014 
http://europa.eu/!hU34kN
"Propylparaben and Butylparaben, other parabens ... Methylparaben and Ethylparaben, are safe ... Commission limits the maximum concentration of ... Propylparaben and Butylparaben, from currently allowed limit of 0.4% when used individually and 0.8% when mixed with other esters, to 0.14% ... used individually or together. They are being banned from leave-on products designed for ... nappy area of young children below ... age of three since existing skin irritation and occlusion may allow increased penetration than intact skin ... new rules ... apply for products ... on shelves after 16 April 2015 ... Commission banned ... five other parabens in cosmetic products - Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Phenylparaben, Benzylparaben and Pentylparaben ... due to ... lack of data necessary for reassessment."

http://www.hindawi.com/journals/ja/2011/467071/

http://desktopdrugreference.com/index.php?a=term&d=4-dictionary-of-contact-allergens&t=34-alkyl-glucosides

http://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ucm101566.htm

http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/Phenoxyethanol-as-a-Safe-and-Important-Preservative-in-Personal-Carepremium-256198651.html

See Also

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/12/natrual-products-for-hair.html

Fabric Treatment You Can Buy To Add SPF Protection To Clothes

Updated, and I will be adding to this post.

I was asked in a blog email about a specific product, RIT Sun Guard, now just called Sun Guard. I had never heard of it, so I checked it out.

There is a fair amount of information about it online, some of it conflicting on certain websites. The manufacturer's website has a fact page that seems fairly clear to me. Product formulations and information can be subject to change for a number of reasons and the manufacturer's website should have the most current information. If there are concerns regarding product safety, I think it is best to contact the manufacturer and ask for the current finished product MSDS if it is not available on their website. I did find such an MSDS dated 2005 elsewhere but that may not be most the current one and I have not listed it below.

From all I have read, the amount of SPF protection this product provides can be limited by how it is used, and the fabrics it is used on. There are specific directions to follow that apparently can be affected by the type of washing machine used too. I have not been able to read the caution on the front of the box on the lower left corner. I always read any cautions or warnings on product packaging very carefully. They are there for good reasons.

If I have any concern about a product and access to a manufacturer toll free contact telephone number or an email, I make use of either to ask the questions I need to ask and hopefully get the required information. I recommend doing that. Product reviews can be very informative. However, I want as much reputable, factual information as possible. I do not shy away from asking for links to such facts or research when I am curious while making inquiries to any source, to back up information. I have gotten such information in the past. See the Mayo Clinic link too, that has information on sun protection and clothing and on treated for SPF clothing.

I have always sought some sun protection as I do not tan. I am a great shade seeker when out in the hours between 10 am and 4 pm. I recently had to be out quite a bit during those hours. The tight weave, untreated for SPF clothing I wore that was still light enough to keep me cool, did not result in my very fair skin getting any colour. I also wore an untreated, tight weave, light coloured and light fabric, satin like kerchief to cover my hair (my new umbrella for sun protection would have been awkward to use because I was carrying packages). That worked just fine as well. My scalp did not get sunburned and my hair did not become lighter in colour or damaged.

References
Australian Government
arpansa.gov.au//uv/testing.cfm 
"UPF rating indicates how effective a fabric is at blocking out solar ultraviolet radiation ... Factors that contribute to the UPF rating of a fabric are: Composition of the yarns (cotton, polyester, etc) Tightness of the weave or knit (tighter improves the rating) Colour (darker colours are generally better) Stretch (more stretch lowers the rating) Moisture (many fabrics have lower ratings when wet)"
http://www.textilesintelligence.com/tisttm/index.cfm?pageid=3&repid=TISTTM&issueid=44&artid=855 

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/age-spots/DS00912/DSECTION=prevention

See Also

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/05/uv-protection-for-skin-and-hair.html

Current Mineral Oil Safety Links 2012

This information is in response to blog email inquiries about mineral oil safety. I have moved it to become a post on its own.

I followed the recent concerns about food contamination and mineral oils back to where they began. I prefer to be as thorough as possible in finding and providing information, that you as blog readers can read for yourselves, not just my interpretation and summary of it. There has not been any mention I have seen anywhere of cosmetic mineral oil or laxative mineral oil use coming under new scrutiny, since the food contamination issues were raised, nor concerns about the oil being used to condition and protect wooden cutting boards or wooden utensils. USP/BP mineral oil use as a laxative has cautions on the bottles regarding recommended amounts and length of time for use. You can also discuss its use with your pharmacist.

If any of that changes, I will be updating about it here. It is unlikely to happen. Topically, cosmetic mineral oil cannot deeply penetrate hair or skin. Toxicity issues are strictly regulated. The newest arthritis research study linked below, even with a qualification or exclusion to be precise, does not find USP/BP or cosmetic mineral oil to be a health risk. 

The first link is dated after the food contamination issues were raised, although they are not addressed in it. However, it does deal with purity and safety issues for cosmetic USP/BP mineral oil and it is clear and well written, with references. If the safety of baby oil for example were to be questioned because of the food issues, that would make headlines online and in print and that has not happened. No such changes have been made to mineral oil laxative use information on websites I trust, like the Mayo Clinic and others I consider as good.

While I am thrilled with my cosmetic use of mineral oil and I know of plenty of others who are as well, I still put safety first as a priority when recommending anything for others to think about using and I back up what I have to say with reputable information, that is as current as possible too. I have no vested interest in cosmetic mineral oil, just a very pleased and still amazed response to how great it can be. The mineral oils in question appear to be mostly from use in industrial applications and there are questions that need to be more thoroughly answered, regarding their safety and food contact.  

References
The safety of cosmetic mineral oil USP/BP, which includes laxative use and use on cutting boards and wooden utensils is not in question. 

Happi Household and Person Products Industry, "Truly Natural"
http://arthritis-research.com/content/pdf/ar3749.pdf

Cutting board use: The link below has good resources to check out. I have checked out individual vegetable oils recommended for use on wooden cutting boards and the rancidity information matches the information here. Walnut oil can turn rancid too, in spite of claims to the contrary on some websites. Mineral oil used on cutting boards is recommended to be reapplied at an appropriate time, when indicated.
https://foodsafety.wisc.edu/assets/pdf_Files/Care%20and%20Cleaning%20of%20Butcher%20Blocks%20and%20Wooden%20Cutting%20Boards.pdf  
This study evaluated the shelf life of several food oils, including walnut oil. 

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19634067

Food contamination issues are under review and the sources of the contamination are in question. 

http://www.foodmanufacture.co.uk/Food-Safety/Don-t-change-eating-habits-after-mineral-oil-study-FSA

http://www.bakeryandsnacks.com/Regulation-Safety/Mineral-oils-linked-to-health-risk-not-present-in-UK-bread-formulation-says-Federation-of-Bakers

http://www.food.gov.uk/news/newsarchive/2012/jun/minoils

http://www.efsa.europa.eu/en/press/news/120606.htm
Background: The food contamination issues came about because of a Swiss study explained below. The study is linked as well and is available as full text html or a pdf.
Printing inks, recycled cardboard and mineral oil migration into food 2011

http://www.nhs.uk/news/2011/03March/Pages/mineral-oil-recycled-cereal-boxes.aspx
FSA risk assessment regarding printing inks and mineral oils 2011  
http://www.food.gov.uk/science/surveillance/fsisbranch2011/minoils

Coconut Oil And Mineral Oil Use

This blog post is in response to several blog emails on the same topic. 

Any "new" oil you try on your hair is going to be affected by what is already on your hair in terms of residues and hair care products in the process of creating those residues. All conditioners cause build-up. Many shampoos these days do too, as do styling aids.

Cosmetic mineral oil can work very well used over conditioner and conditioning shampoos or treatments, less so over styling aids for detangling, depending on the amount of product and residue on the hair. Cosmetic mineral oil or for many, baby oil is a surface oil. It can replace conditioner, detanglers and treatments. It can do the same things by filling in gaps in the cuticles and replacing lost lipids and moisturize hair better than vegetable oils or silicones. No oil, natural or otherwise is the same or similar to natural sebum.

Coconut oil can deeply penetrate hair to the cortex level. There are other oils that can too, like babbasu oil and palm kernel oil becaue of their high lauric acid content. However, these oils cannot penetrate hair with residues on it, or when used over relatively small amounts of conditioner used afterward on hair that has been clarified, for example. The oils need to be used on well clarified hair and can make excellent hair care treatments.

For use in oil shampoo, the oils mentioned above need to be used on hair first well clarified and then added to a preferably mild shampoo that does not cause build-up. If the oil shampoo is then followed by small drops of cosmetic mineral oil will the oil shampoo be as effective? Probably not. Yes, the oil shampoo can remove the mineral oil but during washing it is still there, hindering coconut oil penetration. Two shampooings will most likely be needed, one to remove the mineral oil and one to allow the coconut oil for example, to deeply penetrate hair.

Can coconut oil and mineral oil both be used in a hair care routine? Yes.

Most people need to clarify their hair every so often. That is a perfect opportunity to use coconut oil as a deep treatment. During washing it out with a shampoo that does not cause build-up, or if heat has been used during the treatment, it can deeply penetrate hair. Note: Most fractionated coconut oils contain no to almost no lauric acid. That means most cannot be used to penetrate hair.

The reason many people have problems with coconut oil is that while it can make a lovely surface oil, it is heavy, can be sticky and used over any residues or even a limited or very small fresh application of conditioner after clarifying hair, it is not going into the hair deeply. Coconut oil is not going to deeply penetrate hair mixed with butters or other waxy ingredients, natural or otherwise, either. 

Many people use coconut oil and like it used over conditioned hair. It is working on the hair surface and that can be fine. However, it is the amount of the other products used and the resulting residues that can change that to "crunchy" or "velcro like" hair. The same principles apply to the use of other natural oils that are able to penetrate hair less deeply than coconut, babassu and palm kernel oils. They become surface oils too.

Cosmetic mineral oil can be a multipurpose product for hair care without the drawbacks of other natural oil use: greasy, heavy, sticky hair. It alone can do many things you want an oil to do and more. It cannot replace all coconut oil or argan oil functions and it cannot deeply penetrate hair.

See Also

http://ktanihairsens.blogspot.ca/2012/04/how-mineral-oil-can-help-even-damaged.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/tips-for-applying-cosmetic-mineral-oil.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/conditioners-treatments-and-mineral-oil.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/02/more-on-oils-and-oil-shampoo.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/understanding-drying-capacity-of-oils.html

Can Effective Hair Care Be Simple And Inexpensive?

Absolutely!

For those blessed with naturally great hair and busy schedules, often a shampoo and conditioner is all that is needed in general. Some people do not need to use conditioner at all. Some people prefer to wash their hair with conditioner only. Most shampoos and conditioners these days are acidic. Those formulated for colour-treated hair tend to be more acidic, to offset chemical processing causing roughened hair cuticles. Chelating agents like citric acid and EDTA are often added to shampoos and conditioners and can help with hard water issues.

The cationic conditioning ingredients we have today in hair care are based on fabric softener technology developed in the 1950s. Clarifying shampoos were created to deal with removing residues caused by those ingredients and more, in today's conditioning shampoos, conditioners and styling aids. A gentle one that works effectively is Neutrogena Anti-Residue Shampoo. Fully dissolved baking soda in water, not made too strong in proportion to be drying, followed by a well diluted vinegar rinse is another option.

There are a number of recipes for clarifying hair with baking soda online. What may be fine to use for one person may be too strong or too weak for another. The same applies to the vinegar rinse. Apple cider vinegar or white vinegar or any vinegar with about 5% acetic acid can be used. Coloured vinegars can add colour to some hair shades. So, it may take some experimentation to get that right for you, if you have not used baking soda and vinegar for clarifying previously and been satisfied with the results.

Where extras come into play is to recognize that hair conditioning products can have limitations for a number of reasons. For dry hair for example, applying a lot more conditioner can result in a lot more build-up and even more dryness and can cause spit ends, tangling and breakage, whether it is used instead of shampoo or after shampoo or as a shampoo pre-treatment.

Cosmetic mineral oil can be very effective used as a grooming aid for frizz, static, a thermal protectant and detangler, used in small amounts like small drops, that wash out easily. It is more effective as a moisturizer than vegetable oils and silicone, while providing slip equal to silicone. It can be used that way to replace conditioner, styling aids and hair treatments too, saving a lot of time and expense, especially since it usually only needs to be applied once after hair washing, not in between washes, to be effective.

Coconut and argan oils can chelate iron and copper, and used as a pre-treatment with hair dye containing peroxide applied over them can help prevent conventional peroxide oxidative damage, increase dye uptake, and condition the hair. Used as a pre-treatment with bleach, or only conventional peroxide applied over them, they can also help prevent such chemical processing damage, while not interfering with the lightening of hair colour, as they condition the hair.

Coconut oil added to a mild shampoo that does not cause build-up, after the hair is first clarified to remove hair product residues can deeply penetrate hair, and replace the need for conditioner and styling aids, also saving time and expense. Coconut oil applied to clarified hair can deeply penetrate hair and work wonderfully as a deep conditioning treatment. Note: Most fractionated coconut oils contain no to almost no lauric acid. They are not suitable to be used for either method.

Salon products are not necessarily better than dollar store or drugstore shampoos or conditioners. It depends on the formulation of each product.

Catnip use for conditioning and hair colour is the hair option for me most of the time. I use a conventional shampoo that does not cause build-up first that works well with my hair and very sensitive scalp. I also love catnip on my skin and after the tea is brewed and used, I have not had issues with cats responding to catnip, rinsed off.

What I have concluded after a lot of reading about hair issues, my own experimentation with hair care products, my results and those of others and research is that effective hair care does not have to be overly complicated, expensive or necessarily time consuming. I enjoy my hour long catnip treatment time but I do forgo it for mineral oil use when my schedule is heavy.

In general, less product is more in terms of results. Cosmetic marketing with the exception of sunscreen application (most people it has been observed do not apply enough sunscreen) would have us all use far too much product for each application. For effective hair care, it is necessary to get the scalp clean not overly clean. It is desirable to have the hair lubricated after washing or with oil shampoo during washing, to prevent friction, tangling and stress damage. Far less product than many people think can accomplish all of that, leading to less problems with build-up if the products cause that and the resulting frustrations build-up can cause. It is about choosing the right products you need, be they natural or conventional, and learning how much your hair and scalp can handle, without going overboard and then having issues because of the excess.    

References  

http://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=372 - Reputable ingredient information

http://www.referenceforbusiness.com/industries/Chemicals-Allied/Specialty-Cleaning-Polishing-Sanitation-Preparations.html

http://books.google.ca/books?id=9Z6vCGbf66YC&pg=PA350&lpg=PA350&dq=hair+conditioners+in+1940&source=bl&ots=YJ6dwXo8l7&sig=YojT4gqKsyp4Trbi6Bna3e5QYjk&hl=en&ei=dpW4TKXYLcqcnweD8uSpCA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=hair%20conditioners%20in%201940&f=false

See Also

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/when-to-clarify-hair-and-with-what.html

http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html

Cosmetic Or USP/BP Mineral Oil Updates

I am still updated by friends on their mineral oil or baby oil for the most part use on hair and the results. Their results are consistent with mine. While I still use catnip more often on my hair than cosmetic mineral oil because it is also my hair colour, when I do use baby oil, I have not seen an increase in hair breakage, the appearance of frizz which rarely happens for me with catnip, or the sudden appearance of split ends, which I no longer have to deal with otherwise, thanks to catnip use.

In fact, the consensus from them is clear, whether the person uses conditioner and baby oil or baby oil alone after shampooing, or conditioner only washing. There is a reduction in frizz to almost or nil, reduced hair breakage and a definite reduction in split ends. No other major hair care routine changes have been made.

One of my friends continues to do heat styling and baby oil alone has performed admirably as a thermal protectant and hair conditioner for her for quite a while now. Her chemically damaged hair continues to grow out stronger, while being very easy to comb and style and appears to be much healthier. It shines. She only needs to apply the baby oil to her hair once after each wash for these effects, not in between washes.That was also clear in the consensus. Baby oil only needs to be applied once after hair washing to be effective, not continuously.

One friend swears baby oil use has contributed to her hair growth spurt and protected her hair from sun damage and chlorinated pools. While I have no scientific research links to back any of that up, I think the baby oil has helped offset UV damage and helped shield her hair from access to it by chlorine. As to the growth spurt, I think less breakage from baby oil use can result in more visible growth.

For those who still use conditioner and shampoos that cause build-up, they clarify their hair when needed, which is every so often, not often, to eliminate residue. They have found they need to use much less conditioner than before trying cosmetic mineral oil on their hair, to get fabulous results.

All of this makes perfect sense to me.

Note: Some baby oils with added fragrance have been reported online to cause skin breakouts. In those same reports, switching to a different brand of baby oil with fragrance or baby oil without fragrance, resolved the issue. It was not the mineral oil in the baby oil that was the problem. 
 
See Also
 http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/mineral-oil-as-thermal-protectant.html
 http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/04/how-mineral-oil-can-help-even-damaged.html

 http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2012/03/dry-skin-dry-scalp-and-dandruff.html

Current Research On Plant-Based Insect Repellents: Safety And Effectiveness

While researching my latest catnip safety review, I came across research on natural insect repellents. I think this is a good time to post the results separately. The first reference below is very complete with links one can access. Just "control f" and type catnip for links on it. I have listed more current references on catnip, not included in the first. New insect repellents are being developed with refined catnip oil.

I think the material in the first link is well written and gives sound information to think about. The topic is not a simple one and there are variables. While I personally would love all natural products to perform the best under all possible circumstances and uses, it just does not work that way in many cases, especially when safety and efficacy are factored into the equation. With my cosmetic mineral oil use, when not using catnip, my basic cosmetic needs are about 50:50 all natural and conventional.

I currently do not need to use an insect repellent. However, I am going to review the references below for when I do need one. I prefer reputable, scientifically fact-based material, compared to usually over zealous and confusing marketing hype. The research is very easy for me to find and share.

References

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3059459/

http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/bk-2011-1090.ch004

Refined catnip oil

http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/biopesticides/ingredients/factsheets/factsheet_004801.htm

Biopesticides Registration Action Document for Refined Oil of Nepeta

http://dupont.t2h.yet2.com/t2h/page/techpak?id=50252&sid=20&abc=0&page=tpprint

http://www.cas.org/newsevents/connections/catmint.html