Getting Past The Buzzwords In Cosmetic Marketing

A growing number of marketers believe that consumers need buzzwords, that we respond to and love them. In my experience, after having researched quite a few that had no meaning for me regarding cosmetics, buzzwords are simply made-up, or often misapplied.

The idea of a "detox" shampoo, for example, may stop you in the shampoo isle, which is the idea and encourage you to try the product, with you thinking "Here is something new!" Well, shampoo is shampoo in that, in spite of any ingredients you do not want being absent, or you do want being present, it is designed to clean your hair and scalp.

Fragrance? That is no reason to buy a cosmetic to me, other than ones like body spray, cologne, or perfume. If a product smells bad, that is a reason to avoid it. Buying a product based solely on it smelling wonderful? Be careful of what you wish for, unless the product can deliver on what it has been formulated to do.

When any other kind of cosmetic product is marketed mostly for its fragrance that is telling me, that the marketing team was limited by actual product performance. This is most evident in often unintentionally hilarious, theme-based but irrelevant, sometimes not properly licensed, print, TV, or online advertising. A fanciful theme cannot make up for needed results, no matter how nice a product may smell. You can find yourself "paying through the nose", when a product far less expensive can work much better.

The front of a shampoo bottle is carefully designed to pull you in visually with colours and text. The back of the bottle is usually where it gets interesting. There is more text which should tell you more specifically, how the shampoo can affect your hair. Is it deep cleansing? Is it formulated to help keep your expensive in some cases, new hair colour vibrant? Here is where you need to skip down to the real story, the ingredient list.

In spite of any product looking or sounding amazing, the ingredient lists tell you the truth, if you can read them correctly, in terms of how they actually work. Most ingredient lists today are regulated to be in descending order. Staying with shampoo, in any liquid one, the first and largest percentage ingredient is water. On some shampoo ingredient lists, the term "herbal infusion", or aloe vera juice, replaces the word water, listed first. Some shampoos do not list water at all, other than in the term "aqueous solution".

Herbal infusions in commercial cosmetics are herbal extracts in water. Aloe vera juice naturally contains water. A number of aloe vera juice vendors claim that extra water is added to aloe juice in many commercial products. Next come the cleanser(s) and with some herbal based shampoos, such an ingredient can appear in the middle of the list, which can mislead you.

That infusion or solution, with botanical ingredients often listed by Latin names in addition to, or instead of their common names, ahead of a cleanser is the water base, just drawn out. It does not mean that there is less of the cleansing ingredient(s), than would be found in another shampoo.

Multiple cleansers, some of which you may know and others that may need investigation, tell you more. If a product has multiple cleansers in it, it is highly likely that it is going to be stronger than one that has fewer of them. Many of those plant extracts are going to be coating your hair, likely causing build-up.

A basic shampoo does not necessarily have the edge on being mild. A good clarifying or extra strong shampoo has few ingredients, including cleansers. It is about the cleanser itself and the other ingredients.

The answer to this dilemma? More and more consumers are becoming product savvy. That entails reading reviews, which these days can be tainted by being bought and sold and researching ingredients, on reputable websites, like cosmeticsinfo.org. I know many people buy products in a hurry, as we are all busy these days. However, taking a bit more time to read a label and do the research can save you money and cause less frustration, like when a product does not work out to be what you had in mind.

The buzzwords? Research them too. They are often found questioned online because others have no idea what they mean either. You may often find: that a "revolutionary", or hyped natural ingredient in an expensive cosmetic product: is just a name given by a manufacturer's marketing team to an ingredient or combination of ingredients that upon investigation is nothing special, it has no safety history or history of working well, more scientific research needs to be done to duplicate previous results, or it is not all natural as claimed.

Do consumers really need or love buzzwords? No, not in my opinion. I do not need, love to read, or see nonsense about a product. Many marketers need and love buzzwords and fanciful ideas, to promote products that cannot be sold based on how well they can work. I need and love cosmetic products that are safe, work well and are not expensive. From the feedback I get through this blog, so do many other people.

There are straightforward marketing campaigns that do not circumvent a product's performance by not: concentrating mostly on its fragrance, hyping questionable ingredients natural or otherwise, or using fairy tale themes. They are unfortunately, increasingly harder to find. As consumers become more savvy about real cosmetic product performance, I have no doubt that will change and there will be more of them.

Etsy Policy Changes And Cosmetics

Here is an article dated 2012, on the new Etsy policy changes that apply to cosmetic product vendors as well, now.

Improper marketing claims can be a huge problem with some cosmetics but safety is paramount. A number of Etsy cosmetic vendors appear to be clueless, in a few of the public Etsy forum discussions I have read, as to what FDA marketing restrictions they need to be in compliance with, while hoping they do not get caught. Others appear to be trying to figure out ways around the regulations and remain selling on Etsy, which is a bad sign to me. If so little effort has been put into learning about government cosmetic marketing regulations and the resulting consequences of violating them, how can a vendor be trusted to be selling cosmetics that are safe?

Natural is definitely not safer than synthetic in the hands of those who market and sell cosmetics first and ask important questions later. The work comes first, in making sure a product is safe and well formulated, with all government safety regulations in place having been followed. Hopefully, product performance lives up to its ad copy, which also needs to be in line with existing laws. "Companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety of their products."

Why are cosmetics marketing regulations such a big deal? When marketing claims go beyond the legal restrictions, the product, for all intents and purposes, can become a drug.  
From the FDA 2012
“Two important protections for the public are that a firm may not sell new drugs unless they have been tested and approved by FDA and a firm may not make false or unsubstantiated claims about drugs they sell,” said Dara A. Corrigan, associate commissioner for regulatory affairs. “When a firm disregards these protections, it not only violates the law but also creates a risk for consumers, who may rely on a bogus product and forego effective and proven treatment. FDA must and will take aggressive enforcement action.”  

Are mainstream cosmetics companies exempt from FDA marketing claim challenges? No, they are not. Lancome is owned by L'Oreal. See also this post. 

The FDA has current resources for the reporting of adverse cosmetics effects and improper marketing claims. One simply has to use them.

From the resources link above.
"When in doubt about how to report a problem, call your local FDA Consumer Complaint Coordinator."

More resources from the FDA, updated 2016    

• "Certain claims may cause a product to be considered a drug, even if the product is marketed as if it were a cosmetic. Such claims establish the product as a drug because the intended use is to treat or prevent disease or otherwise affect the structure or functions of the human body. Some examples are claims that products will restore hair growth, reduce cellulite, treat varicose veins ...

• This principle also holds true for "essential oils." For example, a fragrance marketed for promoting attractiveness is a cosmetic. But a fragrance marketed with certain "aromatherapy" claims, such as assertions that the scent will help the consumer sleep or quit smoking, meets the definition of a drug because of its intended use. ..."

Cosmetics products, whether they are mainstream or alternative, need to be safe, properly formulated and regulated. Marketing claims need to be supported by legitimate, reputable sources. Unfortunately, with regard to some natural products, the scientific evidence is limited and lacking, as to the effectiveness claimed by those trying to sell them at a profit, for uses not defined as cosmetic. 

Some natural cosmetics products have been removed from the market for safety reasons. Information on mercury can be found here. Products can be contaminated several ways making them unsafe, that only accepted testing can reveal. 

See Also
FDA Consumer Update, updated 2015
"A study published in the August 27, 2008, issue of the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), demonstrated that one-fifth of U.S.-manufactured and Indian-manufactured Ayurvedic products bought on the Internet contained detectable lead, mercury, or arsenic. ... All metal-containing products exceeded one or more standards for acceptable daily metal intake. ... In light of recent reports, FDA ... considering possible enforcement actions related to Ayurvedic products manufactured in the United States."
The International Society of Dermatology, abstract 2012
"Traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda may cause heavy metal toxicity, severe cutaneous adverse reactions, and contact dermatitis. ... Hair oils may cause contact dermatitis and folliculitis."
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention 2012
"Numerous cases of heavy metal poisonings associated with the use of foreign medications, supplements, traditional remedies, or other health products have been documented (2–5). ... Heavy metals might not be listed as ingredients and might only be identified by testing. Some heavy metal inclusion might result from incidental contamination during production (e.g., the use of contaminated raw ingredients or poor manufacturing equipment), whereas other inclusion might be intentional for perceived therapeutic benefits."

How To Save Time And Money Over Any Holidays And Recover From Money Spent On Them

Updated January 3, 2013. Happy New Year, no matter what your circumstances have been and are and may 2013 see you and yours well.

To help you save time and money this and any year, remember the basics.

Cosmetics do not need to be expensive to work. They just need to work. Marketing cosmetics is about selling you a product at a profit, in many cases, regardless of how well it can work. Often that marketing entails stretching the truth as to how effective that product may be for the purpose intended and contains misleading information, that contravenes regulations, in effect, making the product a drug. Currently, there are only two recognized drugs for hair restoration and growth and they are both government approved and regulated. While scientific researchers are looking for new drugs that are effective for those issues, the hype continues. See this post for more details.

You do not need to pile on products to have great hair or skin. You can save both time and money by using less products more effectively. See this post for more details.

Not all products are best used, when certain scalp conditions or other conditions are present. See this post.

I get feedback from people who email me asking for recommendations for hair and skin care. By far in the majority of cases, simple hair and skin care has worked best. I have heard back from friends and others alike on cosmetic mineral oil being all that has been required to solve issues with both in many cases, whether it is used with other products like less conditioner or alone. It can return hair to a frizz-free softness, shine and manageability not seen or felt in years, even if the hair has been chemically damaged and abused and it is antistatic. Allergic reactions can cause hair shedding. Cosmetic mineral oil is not a known allergen or sensitizer. Cosmetic mineral oil is a natural product that has been purified. It is safe to use and does not clog pores.

"Chemical-free" cosmetics are not possible, since everything contains chemicals. It is a matter of whether the chemicals are safe to use in cosmetics. Not all are in the quantities used in a number of products. Safety also depends on where and how the product is made and preserved and whether regulations in place have been applied. Some countries do not have stringent cosmetic regulations. Some cosmetic products at first escape notification and inspection and later can be put on government advisories, as in this post, or as in the FDA Press Announcement linked below are seized and removed from the market.

While government regulations and actions taken regarding cosmetics and their safety are being improved, the allegation often made by cosmetic marketers, that consumers are unprotected by regulations in place is patently false. What is important to help regulations be enforced is consumer reporting of adverse effects and advertising claims, that go beyond what is regulated. Reporting can help others, by preventing them from having the problems you experienced. That is not restricted to informing the appropriate government agencies.

It is not a good idea, when you have a serious scalp or skin problem that needs medically qualified attention, to seek treatment advice via the Internet. The best advice you can get is to inform your doctor or dermatologist about everything you are using and may have used to self-medicate, which is vital to help them and you get to the source of a problem. A number of natural products are known allergens in scientific research literature available online and to medical professionals.

Consumers can experience allergic reactions and sensitization caused by unsuspected sources, like essential oils used in cosmetic products. Such reactions may also be caused by spice ingredients in cosmetics, even though you have not had problems with them used in small quantities, or infrequent use in food, in the past. If the doctor or dermatologist is unhelpful, get another medically qualified opinion. To me, a good medically qualified practitioner keeps up with the latest medical research and opinions, is willing to discuss treatment options with you and make you aware of possible side effects.

You can research information as well, that you can bring to your doctor or dermatologist's attention and ask questions. Do not be afraid to do so, as you ultimately decide what you are going to do and you are in charge of your health. However, self-medicating is not the way to go when medically qualified help is needed. There is a growing number of unscrupulous vendors, only too willing to help you for a price, that can be far too dear to pay.

The majority of cosmetics on the market are safe and are kept so by government regulations, as well as proper manufacturing and marketing practices, by reputable cosmetic companies. You can make a substantial contribution to that. By simply reporting complete details to your doctor or dermatologist and government agencies, you can protect others and yourself, from future cosmetic-related problems.

See Also
This forum thread, this one and this one
Newspaper article 2012
FDA Press Announcement 2012
Natural Standard Article on the FDA Press Anouncement
Alternative Medicine: Mayo Clinic 2011
Essential Oils and Allergic Reactions: Mayo Clinic 2011
Essential Oils and Dermatitis: Research Review 2012
Spices: Allergies and Cosmetics 2012
ACAAI: Newsroom 2012
Abstract 2011
Contact Allergy: Ginger 2011
Spice Allergies: Occurrence 2007
Spices: Contact Allergies 2002
Lead in lipstick: FDA 2012
Lead in food products: FDA 2011
Sulfates and preservatives 2012